Matt Owens Rees

My Elephant Experience

I was awake at 5.30 this morning. After an invigorating shower I put on my blue overalls, tied a sash around my waist, and donned my white bell-shaped hat.

The uniform I would be wearing as I experience being a Thai mahout for the day.

The first challenge was getting on my tall and heavy elephant. Fortunately Naam was in cooperative mood. One command of sawng soo and she raised her foot so that I could mount and sit astride her neck, my legs behind her ears.

Naam is well over two metres in height.

Moving and changing direction are achieved using a combination of verbal commands and applying pressure to the sensitive parts near the elephant’s head. A firm, though not in any way vicious, kick behind the left ear made Naam turn to the right.

Although it was not difficult to learn the basic aids or commands, they must be given in a strong voice and with determination.

My elephant experience. some myths explained

It’s a myth that a good mahout doesn’t need to use a bullhook. The sharp metal hook is used to train and control his charge. I’ve never seen a mahout without one. In any case, the hook is not used as a punishment. The foot-long instrument enables the mahout to reach the pressure points which control the elephant’s movements.

A mahout stays with the same elephant throughout his life and a bond and mutual trust develops.

When the animal is in “musth” and sexually aroused, or when a female beast is with her calf, be cautious. Take great care, no rushed movements, keep your voice soft and friendly.

(Although pronounced as “must” the word is usually written as “musth”, the preferred spelling.)

It is rare but not unknown for an experienced mahout to be killed by an elephant who has been with its keeper for maybe 40 or 50 years. Elephants are wild animals and should be respected as such.

My Elephant experience. my fun day with naam

Naam loved being bathed and it was difficult to imagine she could get violent quickly. I had no such problems with her during the whole day. She immersed herself (and me) several times in the water to get the dust off her body, and used her trunk to spray water on her back.

We ambled back to camp, Naam stopping occasionally to pick up food with her trunk while I admired some of Thailand’s breath-taking views from my high vantage point.

I will not forget Naam. I’m looking forward to spending another day with her soon, with plenty of sanuk (the Thai word for fun).

For an accurate explanation of elephants in musth, this article from Wikipedia is excellent.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/musth

The link below says a little about me and my writing

https://mattowensrees.com/2025/09/23/matt-owens-rees-profile/

As a cultural anthropologist who has lived in Thailand for nearly two decades, my aim is to write about Thailand’s culture, and the lifestyle of its people, in an easy-to read format. Often with humour. And, often comparing with Western cultures.

You can read my work on https://www.MattOwensRees.com Mainly short true stories on Thai life with a 2 minute read. It’s mobile friendly.



My writing is from my own research and experience, from conversations with Thais from a variety of backgrounds and social classes, and from comments I get when listening to expats and tourists who live in a county called The Land of Smiles.

But, to understand Thailand—and to connect meaningfully with Thai people—it’s better to observe and listen than to dominate the conversation. After all, we were given two eyes and two ears, but only one mouth.

Matt Owens Rees Profile

I’ve built a “focus group” of Thai contacts from all walks of life: farmers, construction workers, office staff, shopkeepers, those working in the professions, business owners, military and police officers.

Bar girls and Bankers; Freemason members and Freelancer girls.

I don’t judge or discriminate. I just write the truth about what I hear and see.